November first is La Toussaint, All Saints Day, a far weightier holiday in France than is Halloween. It’s a day for commemoration of the dead, and this is done primarily with chrysanthemums (chrysanthèmes). If you didn’t know about Toussaint, you’d think France was having a huge Fête de Mums, because the marchés and fleuristes are full of them.



Relatives take mums to the graves of their loved ones. Let’s visit the cimetière de Montmartre:

The accumulation of colorful mums is growing.


Walking through the cemetery is peaceful and beautiful.


and new:


The famous dead:



and the unknown and forgotten dead:

There’s a museum’s worth of artwork in the cemetery:

Cynthia Tuttelman (aka "Tut") is a writer, family doctor and quilter who lives in Northern California and part-time each year in Paris, France. Follow along and explore the wonders of Paris.





